10 Iconic Watches That Changed the Industry Forever

Some watches are more than beautiful objects: they changed how watches are made, worn and designed. Here are ten iconic watches that shaped the industry, from the first waterproof case to the luxury steel sports watch, and why they still matter today.

What makes a watch iconic? Usually a combination of three things: a real innovation, a design that is recognised at first glance, and a story that people still tell decades later. All of the watches on this list are still made today, in updated form, which says a lot about how good the original ideas were.

1. Cartier Tank (1917)

Louis Cartier designed the Tank during the First World War, inspired by the outline of the tanks of the time. With its rectangular case and the sides formed by the strap attachments, it showed that a wristwatch could be pure design. More than a century later it is still one of the most elegant watches in the world. See our Cartier watches.

2. Rolex Oyster (1926)

In 1926 Rolex patented the Oyster, the first waterproof wristwatch case. To prove it, a Rolex Oyster was worn by swimmer Mercedes Gleitze during her English Channel swim attempt in 1927. The Oyster case is the basis of almost every Rolex today, and in 2026 Rolex celebrates its 100th anniversary. See our Oyster Perpetual collection.

3. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (1931)

The Reverso was created for polo players who wanted to protect the glass of their watch during a match: the case can be flipped over so that the dial faces the wrist. Its Art Deco lines made it a design classic far beyond the polo field.

4. Rolex Datejust (1945)

The Datejust was the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch to show the date in a window on the dial. Later the Cyclops lens was added to magnify the date. With its fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet, it became the definition of a classic Rolex. See our Datejust collection.

5. Rolex Submariner (1953)

The Submariner set the standard for the modern diver’s watch: a waterproof case, a rotating bezel to measure dive time and luminous markers that are easy to read under water. Almost every diver’s watch since has been compared to it. See our Submariner collection.

6. Rolex GMT-Master (1955)

Developed for pilots of Pan American Airways, the GMT-Master shows a second time zone using a 24-hour hand and a two-coloured rotating bezel. In an age of intercontinental travel it became the watch of pilots and travellers, and today’s GMT-Master II remains one of the most sought-after Rolex models. See our GMT-Master II collection and our comparison Submariner vs GMT-Master II.

7. Omega Speedmaster (1957)

The Speedmaster was designed as a chronograph for motor racing, but it became famous in space. After passing NASA’s tests, it was worn on the Moon during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969, which earned it the name “Moonwatch”. See our Omega watches.

8. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (1963)

Named after the racing circuit in Daytona Beach, Florida, the Cosmograph Daytona was built for racing drivers, with a tachymeter scale on the bezel to measure average speed. Today it is one of the most desired watches in the world. See our Daytona collection.

9. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972)

Designed by Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak was the first luxury sports watch made in steel and priced like a gold watch. With its octagonal bezel, visible screws and integrated bracelet, it was a risk at the time and became one of the most influential designs in watch history. See our Audemars Piguet watches.

10. Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976)

Also designed by Gérald Genta, the Nautilus was inspired by the porthole of a ship. It brought Patek Philippe into the world of steel sports watches and became one of the most sought-after watches of all. In 2026 the Nautilus celebrates its 50th anniversary. See our Patek Philippe watches.

Why Iconic Watches Hold Their Value

It is no coincidence that many of these models are among the most stable watches on the pre-owned market. Their designs have barely changed, they are recognised worldwide and demand remains high. Read more in Is a Luxury Watch a Good Investment?

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most iconic watch of all time?

There is no single answer, but the Rolex Submariner, the Omega Speedmaster and the Cartier Tank are mentioned most often.

Who designed the Royal Oak and the Nautilus?

Both were designed by Gérald Genta, one of the most influential watch designers of the 20th century.

Can I see these watches in Dubai?

Yes. Several of these models are available in our showroom in the Dubai Gold District, where you can see them in person.